Milan menswear trends reflect the need for a brighter AW21
Comforting fabrics, bright colours, winter
shorts and uninhibited movement are all on show at Milan Men’s Fashion Week,
whose collections for autumn-winter 2021 have been kept behind closed doors
this year by Covid-19.
With the Italian fashion capital again under lockdown and its luxury stores
closed, designers couldn’t help but nod to the new normal of interactions at a
One model lifted a telephone receiver in Ermenegildo Zegna’s video
presentation, while Silvia Fendi announced herself with “Hello, it’s Silvia
calling” in a voiceover to her own catwalk show.
For Tod’s, Italian actor Lorenzo Zurzolo left an answerphone message
recounting a week spent alone in an isolated villa.
Image: K-Way AW21, Catwalkpictures
There were signs everywhere of cosy, comfortable indoor-wear leaving its
mark on outdoor styles, with both Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons layering up
looks over long-johns.
Fendi offered swaddling, belted coats resembling dressing gowns over warm
trousers, all in materials promising soft relaxation as much as the
adventurous high life.
Shawl collars and enveloping dressing-gown styles were also on show at
Zegna, while even windbreaker brand K-Way blurred lines between indoor and
Image: Etro AW21, Catwalkpictures
Shorts with gloves
Fashion houses are hoping men will show some leg next winter, with Fendi
offering colourful quilted shorts and K-way focusing attention on its
trademark yellow, orange and blue zip.
Whimsically daring the cold to do its worst below the belt, designers
covered up elsewhere to compensate.
MGSM paired its bermudas with ski gloves while ETRO topped them with a
jacket more suited to the slopes.
Looking to adapt to an era when anything could happen, Fendi, K-Way and
Prada all showed off reversible coats.
Image: Fendi AW21, Catwalkpictures
Colours and light
Bright colours are a must for next winter, with Etro putting golden, sunny
shades to the fore while Prada turned to jackets blaring fuchsia, red or
violet and short coats in pink and ice blue.
Meanwhile some of Fendi’s monochrome outfits in emerald green, blood red
and saffron yellow are mischievously scribbled with fantastical doodles from
British comedian and artist Noel Fielding.
Image: Prada AW21, Catwalkpictures
Models were dancing throughout Men’s Fashion Week as designers looked to
liberate bodies long unable to strut their stuff.
And the clothes were made to match — flexible and allowing for movement,
like the suits Zegna showed off on models celebrating together in an
apartment, in a seeming wish for the future.
Prada’s supple knits were no barrier to dancing either, while Tod’s slung
an oversized coat over a model trying out a few steps.(AFP)